Osteria Ciceri e Tria

Smaller than it's parent restaurant, Terroni at the Court House, and warmer than it's little Terroni sister on Queen west, Osteria Ciceri e Tria has a lot going on behind its modest street-front exterior. The combination of exposed brick, semi communal dining and blackboard specials make for a cozy and inviting atmosphere. The buzz word here is Antipasto, but after eating here, I wish it weren't. The service is fabulous and they are great about explaining that the idea is to try all of the antipasto (there are five in total) and then choose either a primi (first course of pasta), or secondo (second course of meat or fish) for a fixed price. Alternately, if the antipasto are ordered on their own for five dollars each, the portions are larger.

After sampling all five of the tiny antipasto, I was left wishing that I could have chosen three larger portions of the ones I had enjoyed the most. The Salt Cod stew, although delicious, arrived in a ramekin that was too small to spoon out without slopping most of it on the table. The crostino was a fabulous morsel of crisp grilled bread with soft ricotta cheese and a perfect variation of sweetness between pear and a light drizzle of honey. I was sad to see it go.

The house specialty pasta is a handmade orechiette, which is satisfying and does a good job of cradling the cherry tomato and anchovy sauce, albiet a bit sticky on the finish. I would have liked a little more of the garlic chili oil to lubricate the dish. They do a fabulous job of a secondi with seabass, calamari, clams and mussels in a cherry tomato broth. It's light, bright yet satisfying, leaving you with a tangy broth to sop up with some bread. Other Secondi include a Grilled Cornish Hen with sauteed rapini or a AAA Tenderloin with warm rosemary olive oil.

Wines are, of course, Italian and reasonably priced with most of them around $40-$50 mark.

For dessert, the ricotta and chocolate tart is lipsmacking and despite the density of the tart filling, the pastry is still substantial and buttery.

It's been said that French food is about the cook, and Italian food is about the food, itself. I found Osteria Ciceri e Tria to be more about the overall feel of the space, the buzz and the warmth. But it's worth a go.

Value: Average
Price: $100 for two people with a bottle of wine.
Jenny Likes It: *** Seconds, please. (I'd go back and order differently...maybe order the antipasto a la carte and a primi.)

106 Victoria Street, Toronto, ON
(416) 955-0258

Reservations: Yes
Closed Sunday