Sunday, September 20, 2009

One Sexy Cup: Sant Eustachio Caffe



I am an espresso fiend and I appreciate a delicious cup of dark steaminess, capped with a thick layer of crema. Not only is it an absolute wake up necessity for me, but it's also a way of life; an addiction that I will not and have no desire to part with. So you can imagine that when I travel I am always on the prowl for the perfect espresso. So far, my search has led me to proclaim Caffe Sant Eustachio in Rome, to be the mecca of caffeine-lust.

The place is always full and you will have to line up. Although I hate lineups, I have learned that, in most cases, there's a reason for them: what's inside is really terrific. Order a Gran Caffe, a large cup of espresso that looks like about four shots at once. You'll pay at the counter on the right hand side and receive a ticket to take to the espresso bar. Depending on the time of day, there can be a 10 minute wait, but it is more than worth your patience. When you're bellied up to the bar, the barista will take your ticket and ask you, in Italian, if you want sugar. Respond with "no" or "si" and wait for the most beautiful, creamy, soul- jolting cup of coffee that you've ever had.

When my coffee is handed to me, there is a small spoon on the saucer. I'm momentarily perplexed, as I ordered it without sugar. However, I'm too eager to sip this perfect black cup of heaven. As the espresso passes my lips and slides across my tongue, to be swallowed, I'm met with a deep, rich toasted flavour that echoes itself over and over with hints of thick caramel and an indescribable nuttiness. As if this weren't enough of a treat for the senses, I begin to feel an almost instantaneous buzz, like a slow, lurching electric pulse down my right arm, spreading slowly through my solar-plexis and shooting down my legs. My blood is like lava from this strong stuff and I drink, happily swept away in caffeine rapture.

When my cup is without liquid, I open my eyes and search desperately for another drop. At this point, I learn why I was given a spoon: there, clinging to the bottom and sides of the porcelain mug is a creamy coffee-beige foam known as crema. A good expresso will have plenty of this on top and if it lingers until the end, you know your coffee was sublime. Never in my life, have I seen crema so thick that it needed to be scooped like a precious jeweled dew from the bottom of a mug. As I coaxed the soft foam around the edges of the cup and scooped with the spoon from the bottom and lifted the crema like a cloud to the heavens, it was pure grace. A snow-capped coffee buzz that I'll never forget.

If you think I'm lying, I beseech you to try for yourself. It is absolutely remarkably the best espresso I've had to date. If and when you are in Rome, you need to give it a shot.

Piazza dei Caprettari, 63
00186 Roma (Lazio), Italy
+39 066 861616


Value: Average
Price: $$ one Gran Caffe 3.25 Euro
Jenny Likes It: *****Legendary, better than sex--okay ALMOST as good as sex.

Fun: Fin Izakaya







To my knowledge, this is the only Izakaya in Toronto, but let's start at the beginning: What is an Izakaya? It's a place where Japanese people go to get drunk and eat lots of food. Typically, In Japan, there are private rooms that can be booked to consume all you can drink alcohol for a few hours and stuff your gullet full of noodles, tempura, yakitori, and other Japanese Tapas-like food-but traditionally, sushi is not offered. Fin serves sushi and it seems like a smart move in their part; I'm not sure that Torontonians would understand the idea of a Japanese restaurant that didn't have it.

As soon as you walk through the door at Fin, you'll be greeted by hails from the staff, welcoming you by shouting "hello!" in Japanese. The emphasis on booze is apparent by the large wooden wine rack that flanks the front door, as well as the bottles of sake that are decoratively perched and several of the shelves running along the walls. The decor is a much more warm than in a sushi restaurant and the lights are dimmed low around 8 pm providing a breeding ground for chatter, loud spontaneous proclamations and, of course, drinks.

The Wing was my favourite: a true to it's description, refreshing drink made with sake, grapefruit juice, and blue curacao halo-ed with a salted rim. It did a beautiful job of quenching my thirst for a Friday night starter. For something sweeter, try the Heaven: sake, guava and lychee. Vodka (Shōchū) cocktails are aplenty with combinations including any fresh fruit juice of your choice. Shōchū is a Japanese Vodka-like beverage that contains only 25% alcohol. That's how they are able to serve pitchers of these cocktails and not get shut down by the LLBO. Brilliant, I say!

The food at Fin is good. It's not amazing, but for the price, you'll get to try a lot of different things. Save your sushi appetite for another night and tuck into what they do best at Fin, appetizer -like portions of meat and fish. The Braised pork belly a bit shy of melt-in-your-mouth, but nonetheless delicious, served in a hot bowl with a bit of bok choy and a half boiled egg. A while Squid is grilled and expertly sliced in thin rings. Ahi Tuna Tataki is done beautifully on little soup spoons, featuring a nice helping of tuna that is a not quite as buttery as would be expected, but nonetheless acceptable. Tempura is light and crispy, with sweet potato, squash and bell pepper. Tsukune are lovely tender balls of chicken on a skewer done in a sweet barbecue glaze.

Fin is the perfect place to go with a big group of friends to drink fun cocktails and chow down on fun Japanese finger food. Great for a large group, or for a party-starter before the bar. For the price and the whack of fun you'll have sampling cocktails or chugging back a pitcher of beer, it's a sure bet.

Price: 20-40 per person with a beverage and five or six dishes.

Value: Average (cocktails aren't big and can get expensive.)

Jenny Likes it: ***Seconds, please!


(647) 347-3864
55 Eglinton Ave E
Toronto, ON M4P

Friday, September 18, 2009

Gag me with a Bangkok Spoon!


There is a saying that I like: hunger is the best sauce. Implying of course, that the hungrier you are, the better your food is bound to taste. Bangkok Spoon is the exception to this saying. As famished as I was, there were parts of my lunch that were inedible.

******NB: As of this summer 2010, Bangkok Spoon has been closed. I'm sure it has little if nothing to do with my review, but at least we are all saved from the tragedy of dining there. RIP.

The place looks quite nice from the street; sleek, hip and new with faux wood retro 70's chairs and a gleaming bar. Generally, when going for Thai food, I prefer something a little more authentic where the decor is concerned Bamboo makes me feel good and so does proper Thai music playing in the background. I'm wondering why there seems to be this trend in many Asian places towards a sterile, personality-less environment. Are we, as the consuming masses, afraid of contracting e-coli from a surface that is rough or uneven, possibly hosting billions of bacterial microbes? Are we destined to eat our Pad Thai in futuristic chamber booths that pump oxygen and have Purell dispensers conveniently located underneath your chair? (Where, incidentally, at any real restaurant, there should be a wad of gum). Is this fear, or is it merely a burnout extension of the Asian- minimalist decor craze? If the food is fresh and good, I'm okay with it. Salad King, on Gould Street, is the perfect example of a place that renovated to make things more glistening and modern, but in the process maintained some vestige of authenticity and integrity.

Do you remember your mother telling you that you can judge the cleanliness of a restaurant by their bathroom? Listen, I don't care how clean my food is. Bleach is not a food ingredient. Bangkok Spoon boasts pristine washrooms-- they practically sparkle and Music is gently piped in to enhance your washroom experience. I don't know about you, but I'm not going to a restaurant to hang out in the loo.

I ordered the coconut shrimp, which arrived as the saddest pieces of freezer-burned breaded shellfish that I've ever been expected to eat. Their appearance was that of cardboard: dry and stiff. In fact, I wasn't even sure that they were shrimp. What I think happened here, was that the cooks grabbed some bad frozen breaded shrimp on sale from their supplier, tossed them in dry coconut and plunged them into the depths of the deep fryer for way too long. Despite being over- cooked, they arrived before my cocktail. I politely reminded my server about the drink and she sauntered back to the bar where, I assumed she was making it. (Did I mention that we were the only table in the place?) The hot and sour soup was absolutely inedible. A red gel hosting shards of drowning tofu and slimy vegetables. Surprisingly, the Mango Salad was great. Nice, firm strips of fruit with cashew and cilantro in a nicely balanced yet still tangy dressing. Who knew?

To fairly judge any Thai restaurant it is important to try both a noodle dish and a curry. If the place is any good, the noodles will be properly cooked-- not mushy and glue-like with a fresh selection of seafood, meat or vegetables. A good curry will have the right balance of heat, saltiness, sweet and sour, and the ratio of sauce to ingredients in the curry is important. If they are using fresh ingredients, the sauce will be just that:a sauce-- a lovely fragrant compliment to delicious ingredients not a lake of spiced coconut milk for a few slices of beef to swim in. Cornstarch should not make an appearance in Thai curries, either, so gloopy sauces are a no no.

My cocktail finally arrived.

The Pad Thai here is beyond questionable. A tangle of mushy, pink noodles were displayed on the side of the plate decorated only with a few curds of scrambled egg and peanut shavings. The remaining space on the plate was filled with meat, hopefully beef, since that's what we ordered, with a sauce that looked as though it was made from leftover hot and sour soup. I had to ask my friend again what she had ordered since I had never seen Pad Thai look like this before. She told me it was Beef Curry and Pad Thai?

My acid test on this afternoon was a plate of Pad Woon Sen, my favourite Thai noodle dish made with stir fried glass noodles, chicken , shrimp, egg and tofu garnished with peanut, lime and cilantro. Normally, the noodles are soaked and then fried in a sauce of lime, tamarind and sugar. I had vague hints of each of these flavours but the general taste was not pleasant. The chicken had the consistency of a junkyard tire and the shrimp, oddly enough, tasted of coconut (again, I think they re-used uneaten soup for a marinade or sauce).

As we attempted to feed ourselves, a table of three reasonably intelligent looking men filed in and sat, looking at the menu. I had half a mind to tell them to leave while they still could. A rotund gentleman had come in earlier to order takeout and escaped the confines of the restaurant, white styrofoam bag in hand. I felt as though we had all been duped. I don't normally dislike stuff so much. I try to find something good in everything. Hence, the mango salad. But it was not enough to redeem Bangkok Spoon. It's a shame they spent all that money on their bathroom.

As we mounted our bicycles in attempt to escape the bitter Thai experience, we noted a nice looking couple perusing the menu on Bangkok Spoon's sandwich board. I looked at my friend and she could tell that I felt badly about the prospect of these decent people wasting their money and the beautiful sunny day.

"Don't eat there," my friend offered, "it's shit."

The couple, peered at us, with wide eyes and mouths rounded in quizzical "o" s. They quietly consulted each other with meaningful nods. Grateful for the candid review, they thanked us and hurried off to find something better. They didn't have very far to go. Interestingly enough, there is another small Thai place right beside Bangkok Spoon. You'd think that with a competitor right next door, they'd step it up a bit. They'll have to move a lot faster than our couple who escaped!

Price: $$ Lunch $15 pp and dinner $20 pp.

Value: Poor.

Jenny likes it this much: * Kife, don't bother. (I'd use their bathroom again, though.)


469 Danforth Avenue, Toronto, ON M4K1P1
in between Arundel & Logan
Phone: (416) 916-4388

*Who sucked whom for this review?

http://www.torontolife.com/guide/restaurants/thai/bangkok-spoon/review/

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Pizza Libretto






I really like what Pizza Libretto is doing: Traditional Neapolitan Pizza in a super-chill atmosphere. Although the wood-fired oven may have been imported straight from Naples to ensure the thin, blistered crust that is possibly the world most perfect vessel for inspired toppings, the rest of it is, for the most part, local. This place is busily populated with Ossington hipster/parents, 20-30 something singles eager for a quick meal before a night out on the town, and couples on pizza dates. An eclectic mix, indeed, but what we can learn from this is that these people know where to go for a killer pizza and this joint is pretty particular about what the measure of the perfect thin crust is. Their website states that:

(The) diameter should not exceed 35 cm. Central part should be no more than 0.3 cm thick with the crust only slightly thicker at 1-2 cm thick the only Certified Vera Pizza Napoletana in Toronto.

Mathematics aside, the crust is deliciously thin without being too fragile. They're doing something right and it's serious business to them.

The inside of the pizzeria is bustling and once you're past the lineup, you'll be enjoying the people watching from your seat. Try going a little earlier in the evening to avoid the lineups and a bit later to avoid parent/kid combos. Personally, I'm not sure what kids are doing here. The place is abuzz with music that is loud enough for your to sway in your little wooden seat, and the selection ranges from Siouxsie and the Banshees to The New York Dolls and whatever other choices the colourful staff feel like swaying back and forth to whilst delivering piping-hot pies. Speaking of seating... almost all of it is communal at Libretto. Now, before you're scared away by the idea of sharing your table with someone who, say, chews their food like a cow chews it's cud, or the prospect of a screaming child in your midst, I'll tell you that it's actually kind of fun. This place has such a relaxed buzz to it that you're more likely to make friends with the people sitting next to you. In my book, that's cool. Torontonians are known as polite and well mannered, but an outgoing bunch, we are not. This is good for us.

The wine list is extensive featuring Italian wines, save a few offerings from the Niagara region to back up their local-lust. Tasting notes are featured directly on the list below each wine, which is especially nice for those who like wine, but are not of the sommelier school of knowledge. The servers even include some of their own impressions of the wines right on the menu, which I thought was really cool and added a certain personal touch that is, in the end, what makes or breaks a restaurant.

Right, so you came to my blog to read about food, so here it is:

Appetizers are lackluster compared to the pizza. The bruschetta is a bit bland and frankly uninspired given the toppings that could have done more with flavour. Instead, a chop of yellow zucchini is not caramelized but merely smattered with grill marks. Prosccuitto is nicely salted and tender, but I want to weep for the tiny piece of dry bread underneath. It seems pointless. Happily, Libretto's homemade Chili Oil arrived: a deep, russet- coloured infusion of rosemary and chili which proved to be earthy, tangy and downright sublime, breathing new life into my carbohydrate casualty.

The Caprese salad made with Ontario Fiore de Latte (literally translated it means 'flower of the milk') was simple and the cheese, itself, was soft but not as rich and herbaceous as traditional mozzarella di buffala. However, given the shortage of Buffalo in Ontario, I shall forgive and enjoy my local offerings. The tomatoes were ripe, firm and red, just as any good tomato should be. This is September. Tomatoes everywhere ought to be fabulous.

Definitely try one white pizza (without tomato sauce) and one with their delicious homemade sugo (a gorgeous and unpretentious fresh tomato sauce). The duck confit is stellar with tender morsels of duck (it's fat content proving to be a nice helping hand to keep the meat moist in the hot oven--chicken on pizza is gross), and sweet mellow pear with just a hint of the creamy fiore di Latte. It's a foodie's dream. The Hot Pepper pizza is aflame with local rings of fire that marry well with the piquant homemade sausage, cooled down nicely by the fresh cheese. The simplicity of the Margherita is absolutely sublime. The basil is sweet and almost crispy out of the oven. Wild mushrooms are nestled comfortably between soft layers of creamy Tallegio, and it's a sensation of herb-laden love on a crisp bubbly crust.

A lemon blueberry pannacotta for dessert is a lovely little pillow of cooked cream with fresh (and you guessed it--local) blueberries. What's great about this dessert is that it's not too filling and just the right hit of flavour. It seems to soothe rather than stuff.

In closing, I have to say that Jenny likes it. You really should visit Pizza Libretto before you die--or sooner, in fact. It's a jammin spot, serving up everyone's number one weekend/weeknight/whenever chow down- food with all the flair and personality of a more upscale place. And the best part? Not only do they make fabulous pizza, but they haven't forgotten the golden rule of pizza: F-U-N.

Fun pizza: good, Un-fun pizza: bad. Aand they know it.

One last thing: I'd recommend the price fix menu for $25 pp since, at present time, it includes any pizza off of their menu and it's a great way to try both the pizzas and check out the appetizers to see if you hate me for slamming them. Hint: One person orders the price fix and the other (s) order pizza a la carte.


Price: $25 per person.
Value: Good
Rating: * * * 1/2 Me mucho likee! Not a place to linger, but truly a FUN Toronto gem. Best Pizza I've had in the city.
Perfect for: A date, dinner before a night on the town
Reservations: No
Take Out: Yes


221 Ossington Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, M6J 2Z8, Canada.

5pm-11pm/ Saturday-Sunday 4-11pm
416-532-8000

Price Fixe: $25 pp, includes bruschetta, salad or vegetable, any pizza of their menu and dessert (drinks extra).

Monday, September 7, 2009

Le Paradis Frugal French with Flair




I have yet to come across another restaurant that delivers such uncompromising flavour, atomosphere and value. Anywhere.Le Paradis is true French, right down to the servers (most of them hailing from France) and the sweetbreads, which are often available on the menu, but sell out quickly so it's best to make a reservation and get there early since they are about the most delicious morsels I've enjoyed anywhere outside of France.

Situated on a quiet strech of upper Bedford Road, this little bistro seems quite unassuming and it's location echoes this sentiment. However, upon entering, your senses are awakened by the flaming open kitchen, busily moving cooks speaking to one another in French, and a low lit room, adorned with Parisian Art Deco, checkered floors and papered tables. (The papered tables are just about the only thing I don't love about Le Paradis.)

The welcoming menu begins with the Vins du Jour. Perhaps one of the nicest things about this place is that almost all of their wines, exclusively French, are priced under $50 a bottle. There is never a snooty or intimidating moment at this little gem of a brasserie. The servers are helpful with choices and quick to recommend pairings. The menu, itself, changes daily, but boasts classics that one would hope to see, such as Veal Kidneys and Bouef a la Bourguignonne, alongside North African influenced favourites such as Tagine De Volaille (Chicken Tagine) and Agneau de la Marocaine (Moroccan Veal Shanks). Portions are more than generous.

Soups are delicious, traditionally French, and it's not uncommon to see Vichysoisse alongside a Soup Au Champignon in the summer. Les Entrees (which are actually the appetizers) are usually a pleasant mixture of Grilled Sardines or Mackerel. The Moules a la Marieniere are fabulous and must be tried. I'm a also a fan of their Pate de Campagne, a rustic and hearty medley with rabbit, pork, prune and pistachio. The flavours are well balanced with a rubbly texture and not over peppered as some pates can tend to be.

Normally, I am drawn to fish on any menu, but I'm a sucker for the French organ meat and almost always have the Calf's Liver wich is unfailingly rich and delicious with caramelized onion and smoky bacon. Veal Sweetbreads are golden and crisp with a caramelized outside and a soft, light and tender inside. Also outstanding, are any of their many featured rabbit dishes that usually involve olives and a generous level of spice. The rabbit is unfailingly fall off the bone tender. I've been lucky enough to have the rabbit terrine as a starter and it is by far the best entree when available. The Blaff a la Martiniquaisse is my favourite of the seafood dishes featuring a braised medley of mixed fish with tender calamari and shrimp in a spicy citrus broth. For those who prefer something a little less daring, the the flatiron steak or an often appearing roast half chicken are sure to be familiar and inviting.

As you eat, the bistro will buzz around you and the smells from the kitchen: garlic, shallot, onion, herbes de provence, will leave you weak at the knees with delight. The wine will romance your mind and make everything soft as the room glows with low light, the tinkering of glasses and plates finished with glistening sauces made of reduced wine and stock.

For dessert, I implore you to have the Balthazar, a flourless cake that's dense, rich and fragrant with dark chocolate and almonds. The home-made ice creams and sorbets are also delicious, luscious coconut and ruby rich raspberry are a fabulous ending to a memorable meal.

If you like French food even a little bit, there is no reason why you should not be visiting this restaurant on a regular basis. And if you haven't tried it yet, make a reservation. Maintnant!


Price: $$$ Dinner for two with a glass of wine each $50/Dinner for two with three courses and a bottle of wine $80-120
Value: Outstanding
Jenny Likes It: * * * * Utter Adoration

Perfect For: A date, a special family dinner, traditional gourmands, large groups, al fresco dining, skip out of work and get drunk on wine lunch.
Reservations: Yes

166 Bedford Road
Toronto, Ontario
Canada
416-921-0995

Sunday-Monday 5:30 pm-10pm

Tuesday -Friday
Lunch: 12 pm-3pm
Dinner: 6 pm-11pm

Saturday: 5:30-11pm

Price Fixe Dinner available for $20 pp Dinner and $10 Lunch, excluding wine or beverages.
Patio Open Seasonally. Front and Back.

Tartine Bakery & Cafe




Possibly the best bakery and Cafe that I visited in San Francisco and it has the lineup out the door to prove it. Tourists and locals in the know flock to this place in the Mission for fresh breakfast pastries, heavenly bread and artful pressed sandwiches.

Since 2002, husband and wife team of Elisabeth Pruiett and Chad Robertson have been catering to discerning bread lovers and those with a sweet tooth for patisserie perfection. Wherever possible, the focus is on fresh, organic ingredients hailing from local farms and creameries. The place is small and charming, although there is limited communal seating, this seems to be fine with the cheery patrons as they chat casually to table mates over a cafe Americano and a delicious Pain au Chocolat or fresh Buttermilk Scones. A few lucky friends snag tables outside on this gorgeous San Francisco day and enjoy their lovely, crispy gruyere- laden, bechamel- laced Croque Monsieur available with Ham, Turkey or their vegetarian version with Shitake Mushrooms. The array of pastries is staggering, and I'm happy to see a lemon tart offered amongst favourites like Chocolate Hazelnut and Banana Cream. Eclairs are puffy and light, grounded with a layer of Valrhona Chocolate.

With all thee sweet temptations, it's still hard to overlook the fresh loaves of bread that are baked in a stone oven and topped with olives, sesame or walnut. The delicious warm, yeasty smell carries you in the door, placates you while you wait in line and entertains your senses as you savour whichever delight you've chosen to enjoy.

After 12 pm, Tartine offers a varied menu of pressed sandwiches. You'll be greeted for lunch with selections such as Sheep Cheese and Crushed Almond with Lemon and Sage, Sopressata and Fontina with Broccoli Rabe Pesto, and Niman Ranch Pastrami with fresh Horseradish and Gruyere. These pockets of yum are perfect to grab for a picnic lunch in the park or a drive up the coast.

Tartine is a must do if you're visiting the city and this stretch of the Mission District, in particular is indicative of California's Slow Food revival with a focus on local ingredients and talented chefs.

Price: $6-$15 USD for a coffee and breakfast pastry and or pressed sandwich.
Value: Average
Jenny Likes it: * * * * Utter adoration.
Beer and Wine available.

Perfect for: Brunch, Take out or picnic lunch, breakfast, people watching, lazy afternoon, dining alone, patio.
Reservations: No

600 Guerrero Street San Francisco, CA 94110 t. 415 487 2600

Cafe Hours: 8am - 7pm Monday
7:30am - 7pm Tuesday, Wednesday
7:30am - 8pm Thursday, Friday
8am - 8pm Saturday
9am - 8pm Sunday