I have yet to come across another restaurant that delivers such uncompromising flavour, atomosphere and value. Anywhere.Le Paradis is true French, right down to the servers (most of them hailing from France) and the sweetbreads, which are often available on the menu, but sell out quickly so it's best to make a reservation and get there early since they are about the most delicious morsels I've enjoyed anywhere outside of France.
Situated on a quiet strech of upper Bedford Road, this little bistro seems quite unassuming and it's location echoes this sentiment. However, upon entering, your senses are awakened by the flaming open kitchen, busily moving cooks speaking to one another in French, and a low lit room, adorned with Parisian Art Deco, checkered floors and papered tables. (The papered tables are just about the only thing I don't love about Le Paradis.)
The welcoming menu begins with the Vins du Jour. Perhaps one of the nicest things about this place is that almost all of their wines, exclusively French, are priced under $50 a bottle. There is never a snooty or intimidating moment at this little gem of a brasserie. The servers are helpful with choices and quick to recommend pairings. The menu, itself, changes daily, but boasts classics that one would hope to see, such as Veal Kidneys and Bouef a la Bourguignonne, alongside North African influenced favourites such as Tagine De Volaille (Chicken Tagine) and Agneau de la Marocaine (Moroccan Veal Shanks). Portions are more than generous.
Soups are delicious, traditionally French, and it's not uncommon to see Vichysoisse alongside a Soup Au Champignon in the summer. Les Entrees (which are actually the appetizers) are usually a pleasant mixture of Grilled Sardines or Mackerel. The Moules a la Marieniere are fabulous and must be tried. I'm a also a fan of their Pate de Campagne, a rustic and hearty medley with rabbit, pork, prune and pistachio. The flavours are well balanced with a rubbly texture and not over peppered as some pates can tend to be.
Normally, I am drawn to fish on any menu, but I'm a sucker for the French organ meat and almost always have the Calf's Liver wich is unfailingly rich and delicious with caramelized onion and smoky bacon. Veal Sweetbreads are golden and crisp with a caramelized outside and a soft, light and tender inside. Also outstanding, are any of their many featured rabbit dishes that usually involve olives and a generous level of spice. The rabbit is unfailingly fall off the bone tender. I've been lucky enough to have the rabbit terrine as a starter and it is by far the best entree when available. The Blaff a la Martiniquaisse is my favourite of the seafood dishes featuring a braised medley of mixed fish with tender calamari and shrimp in a spicy citrus broth. For those who prefer something a little less daring, the the flatiron steak or an often appearing roast half chicken are sure to be familiar and inviting.
As you eat, the bistro will buzz around you and the smells from the kitchen: garlic, shallot, onion, herbes de provence, will leave you weak at the knees with delight. The wine will romance your mind and make everything soft as the room glows with low light, the tinkering of glasses and plates finished with glistening sauces made of reduced wine and stock.
For dessert, I implore you to have the Balthazar, a flourless cake that's dense, rich and fragrant with dark chocolate and almonds. The home-made ice creams and sorbets are also delicious, luscious coconut and ruby rich raspberry are a fabulous ending to a memorable meal.
If you like French food even a little bit, there is no reason why you should not be visiting this restaurant on a regular basis. And if you haven't tried it yet, make a reservation. Maintnant!
Price: $$$ Dinner for two with a glass of wine each $50/Dinner for two with three courses and a bottle of wine $80-120
Value: Outstanding
Jenny Likes It: * * * * Utter Adoration
Perfect For: A date, a special family dinner, traditional gourmands, large groups, al fresco dining, skip out of work and get drunk on wine lunch.
Reservations: Yes
166 Bedford Road
Toronto, Ontario
Canada
416-921-0995
Sunday-Monday 5:30 pm-10pm
Tuesday -Friday
Lunch: 12 pm-3pm
Dinner: 6 pm-11pm
Saturday: 5:30-11pm
Price Fixe Dinner available for $20 pp Dinner and $10 Lunch, excluding wine or beverages.
Patio Open Seasonally. Front and Back.
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