Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Pizza Libretto






I really like what Pizza Libretto is doing: Traditional Neapolitan Pizza in a super-chill atmosphere. Although the wood-fired oven may have been imported straight from Naples to ensure the thin, blistered crust that is possibly the world most perfect vessel for inspired toppings, the rest of it is, for the most part, local. This place is busily populated with Ossington hipster/parents, 20-30 something singles eager for a quick meal before a night out on the town, and couples on pizza dates. An eclectic mix, indeed, but what we can learn from this is that these people know where to go for a killer pizza and this joint is pretty particular about what the measure of the perfect thin crust is. Their website states that:

(The) diameter should not exceed 35 cm. Central part should be no more than 0.3 cm thick with the crust only slightly thicker at 1-2 cm thick the only Certified Vera Pizza Napoletana in Toronto.

Mathematics aside, the crust is deliciously thin without being too fragile. They're doing something right and it's serious business to them.

The inside of the pizzeria is bustling and once you're past the lineup, you'll be enjoying the people watching from your seat. Try going a little earlier in the evening to avoid the lineups and a bit later to avoid parent/kid combos. Personally, I'm not sure what kids are doing here. The place is abuzz with music that is loud enough for your to sway in your little wooden seat, and the selection ranges from Siouxsie and the Banshees to The New York Dolls and whatever other choices the colourful staff feel like swaying back and forth to whilst delivering piping-hot pies. Speaking of seating... almost all of it is communal at Libretto. Now, before you're scared away by the idea of sharing your table with someone who, say, chews their food like a cow chews it's cud, or the prospect of a screaming child in your midst, I'll tell you that it's actually kind of fun. This place has such a relaxed buzz to it that you're more likely to make friends with the people sitting next to you. In my book, that's cool. Torontonians are known as polite and well mannered, but an outgoing bunch, we are not. This is good for us.

The wine list is extensive featuring Italian wines, save a few offerings from the Niagara region to back up their local-lust. Tasting notes are featured directly on the list below each wine, which is especially nice for those who like wine, but are not of the sommelier school of knowledge. The servers even include some of their own impressions of the wines right on the menu, which I thought was really cool and added a certain personal touch that is, in the end, what makes or breaks a restaurant.

Right, so you came to my blog to read about food, so here it is:

Appetizers are lackluster compared to the pizza. The bruschetta is a bit bland and frankly uninspired given the toppings that could have done more with flavour. Instead, a chop of yellow zucchini is not caramelized but merely smattered with grill marks. Prosccuitto is nicely salted and tender, but I want to weep for the tiny piece of dry bread underneath. It seems pointless. Happily, Libretto's homemade Chili Oil arrived: a deep, russet- coloured infusion of rosemary and chili which proved to be earthy, tangy and downright sublime, breathing new life into my carbohydrate casualty.

The Caprese salad made with Ontario Fiore de Latte (literally translated it means 'flower of the milk') was simple and the cheese, itself, was soft but not as rich and herbaceous as traditional mozzarella di buffala. However, given the shortage of Buffalo in Ontario, I shall forgive and enjoy my local offerings. The tomatoes were ripe, firm and red, just as any good tomato should be. This is September. Tomatoes everywhere ought to be fabulous.

Definitely try one white pizza (without tomato sauce) and one with their delicious homemade sugo (a gorgeous and unpretentious fresh tomato sauce). The duck confit is stellar with tender morsels of duck (it's fat content proving to be a nice helping hand to keep the meat moist in the hot oven--chicken on pizza is gross), and sweet mellow pear with just a hint of the creamy fiore di Latte. It's a foodie's dream. The Hot Pepper pizza is aflame with local rings of fire that marry well with the piquant homemade sausage, cooled down nicely by the fresh cheese. The simplicity of the Margherita is absolutely sublime. The basil is sweet and almost crispy out of the oven. Wild mushrooms are nestled comfortably between soft layers of creamy Tallegio, and it's a sensation of herb-laden love on a crisp bubbly crust.

A lemon blueberry pannacotta for dessert is a lovely little pillow of cooked cream with fresh (and you guessed it--local) blueberries. What's great about this dessert is that it's not too filling and just the right hit of flavour. It seems to soothe rather than stuff.

In closing, I have to say that Jenny likes it. You really should visit Pizza Libretto before you die--or sooner, in fact. It's a jammin spot, serving up everyone's number one weekend/weeknight/whenever chow down- food with all the flair and personality of a more upscale place. And the best part? Not only do they make fabulous pizza, but they haven't forgotten the golden rule of pizza: F-U-N.

Fun pizza: good, Un-fun pizza: bad. Aand they know it.

One last thing: I'd recommend the price fix menu for $25 pp since, at present time, it includes any pizza off of their menu and it's a great way to try both the pizzas and check out the appetizers to see if you hate me for slamming them. Hint: One person orders the price fix and the other (s) order pizza a la carte.


Price: $25 per person.
Value: Good
Rating: * * * 1/2 Me mucho likee! Not a place to linger, but truly a FUN Toronto gem. Best Pizza I've had in the city.
Perfect for: A date, dinner before a night on the town
Reservations: No
Take Out: Yes


221 Ossington Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, M6J 2Z8, Canada.

5pm-11pm/ Saturday-Sunday 4-11pm
416-532-8000

Price Fixe: $25 pp, includes bruschetta, salad or vegetable, any pizza of their menu and dessert (drinks extra).

2 comments:

  1. Wherebe the anchovies and capers? What pizza joint has no anchovies! AARRRRGGGHHH!!!! At least there are sardines.

    ReplyDelete
  2. As my editor, I feel it necessary to lambaste you for the typo in your comment above. Consider yourself Lambasted!

    ReplyDelete